Saturday, October 17, 2009

Vitamin B for Skin Health

Vitamin B is made up of thiamin (B1), riboflavin (B2), niacin (B3 or B4), panthenol (B5), pyridoxine (B6), bioin (B8 or vitamin H), folate (B9), and cobalimin (B12). B vitamins have been show to help promote healthy skin, hair and nails. All are water soluble. Vitamin B3 and B5 are the most common found in skin care products so that's what "B" the focus for this article. :)

B3 has been recognized for its anti-aging potential. Vitamin B3 and B5 is being increasingly used in a number of acne treatments, where its wound healing properties has made it an important ingredient.

Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) is the biologically active form of niacin. B3 increases the rate of skin exfoliation and increases moisture barrier repair. Niacinamide helps rosacea patients with increased skin barrier function to reduce skin irritants. Studies have shown it to be useful in increasing synthesis of collagen and lipids while decreasing inflammation. “Already, topical 4% niacinamide has been shown to be beneficial in the treatment of papular and pustular acne in a 4% gel, as well as the improvement of skin cancer and its anti-tumor characteristics”1.  Another study shows that Niacinamide use "revealed a variety of significant skin appearance improvement effects for topical niacinamide: reductions in fine lines and wrinkles, hyper-pigmented spots, red blotchiness, and skin sallowness (yellowing). In addition, elasticity (as measured via cutometry) was improved." 2

Vitamin B5 (panthenol) reduces water loss through the skin by acting as a penetrating moisturizer. Here's a bonus! Panthenol can help protect the skin against sunburn AND relieve an existing sunburn! Studies show the Panthenol penetrates the skin and converts to Pantothenic Acid. Pantothenic Acid allows for permeation of the epidermis, the outer layer of the skin, so that all the goodness reaches the dermis where the elastin and collagen fibers are.

Turns out Vitamin B3 and B5 is pretty good stuff in skin care products:
☞   Reductions in fine lines and wrinkles and hyperpigmented spots
☞   Dry skin stays supple and elastic longer
☞   Anti-inflammatory and anti-itching effect
☞   Stimulates skin regeneration
☞   Small wounds, scratches, sunburn and blisters heal better
☞   Combine with other ingredients for relief from eczema, psoriasis, skin inflammation and skin allergies.

1 Dr. Draelos, American Academy of Dermatology.
2 Bissett Donald L., PhD, The Procter & Gamble Company, Miami Valley Laboratories, Cincinnati, Ohio.

Michael Lamb
ToBetterSkin.com

Vitamin A for Skin Health

This is the first in a series of topics discussing Vitamins for your skin health. Later topics will include botanical ingredients as well as natural compounds such as DMAE, MSM and CoQ10.

Let's go alphabetical starting with A, Vitamin A that is! It's common knowledge that Vitamin A is good for the skin. Many have found relief from acne by applying serums, lotions and cremes containing Vitamin A. There are two common forms found in consumer products. The most potent form of Vitamin A is called Retinol (Retinol Palmitate). This form is found in meat products and vitamin supplements. In higher concentrations Retinol can be quite toxic. The vegetable form of Vitamin A is beta-carotene and is a non-toxic precusror of Vitamin A (sometimes called pro-Vitamin A) that is converted in the body into retinol and stored in the liver.

Before we get into the nitty-gritty let's summarize what collagen is. Think of it as the glue (it's actually a protein) that holds all kinds of body tissue together. It helps to provide the skin with strength, flexibility, and resilience. As people age collagen degradation occurs, leading to wrinkles. Drum roll please...Vitamin A increases collagen absorption for the skin. Wooo hoooo!!!

OK, bear with me on the science stuff for a moment. There's been some debate as to which type of Vitamin A is best. Retinol Palmitate nourishes the skin and assists in the rejuvenation process that maintains a more youthful appearance. But what about beta-carotene? According to research, "topical beta-carotene has been shown to penetrate well into the epidermis and induced a 10-fold increase of epidermal retinyl esters, which demonstrates that topical beta-carotene is converted into retinyl esters by the epidermis and becomes a precursor of epidermal vitamin A."*  Retinyl ester is what Retinol becomes after being fully broken down. Simply put, beta-carotene (the mildest form of Vitamin A) works great in lotions, serums and cremes to increase collagen absorption!

Vitamin A is also a powerful antioxidant because it traps free radicals. Free radicals are a byproduct of normal cell function, pollution, and UV radiation from the sun. The free radical bonds to other molecules causing proteins (remember, collagen is a protein) and other essential molecules to not function as they should. This asserts that many of the changes that occur as our bodies age are caused by free radicals.  Luckily, antioxidants can minimize free radical damage.

Increased collagen absorption and the ability to fight free radicals. Vitamin A packs a one-two punch!

*Department of Dermatology, University Hospital, Geneva, Switzerland. 2004 Sep 13

Michael Lamb

Vitamin A, Retinol Palmitate, beta-carotene, betacarotene, beta carotene, pro-Vitamin A, proVitamin A, Retinyl ester, collagen, wrinkles, epidermis, antioxidant, free radicals, skincare, skin care, serum, creme